Jewelry Designer Tiersa Nureyev of Stella Fluorescent Shares Their Materials-Driven Process

Stella Fluorescent is a San Francisco based design studio co-founded by Tiersa Nureyev and Erik Hilburn. The studio’s focus is on making fashion forward, thoughtful objects that take the form of accessories, jewelry, and textiles. Their materials-driven process starts first with curiosity, a desire to innovate, and a myriad of questions.

OUR PROCESS

We Ask Questions

How can we use this textile in a new way? Can this construction technique be applied to a new product category? Will it work if we combine these two disparate materials? What would happen if we worked with an artist from a different discipline?

“I imagine the process of creation as a series of hands molding, applying their expertise to the object and passing the materials to another waiting set of hands.”

Bracelet, in Four Steps

1) Botanical dye distilled, exuded or otherwise extracted from plant and insect matter.

2) Meets silk Habotai fiber, to be stained, washed, and hung dry.

3) Silk yardage is transformed into running yardage of finished narrow strands.

4) Then hand braided using a circular loom and traditional Japanese Kumi Himo technique, finished with securing and attaching magnetic metal closures.

A Handmade Object is Imbued with the Maker’s Intention

The more steps in the process the more the meaning grows. The story of our Doma Luna collection (below left) has many chapters, from handmade oil paint, to hammered domes, to several delicately applied coats of paint, to sanding and polishing, and even to the photographer’s hands that endeavored to convey each piece’s beauty.

Collaboration

The majority of our collections have emerged from collaborations with like-minded/Bay Area designers and artists. We work with partners that are, like us, dedicated to approaching materials in novel and innovative ways. They share the conviction that sustainable design practices are inherently logical and absolutely necessary.

We love approaching materials in novel and innovative ways. We collaborated with woodworker and artist Yvonne Mouser to create a line of jewelry and accessories. The Nevelson Prism Necklace (above right) used the graphic endgrain of white oak to reference a textile herringbone motif, and then added laminated metal as another element to add a traditional jewelry material. These miniature sculptures were turned into beads and strung onto vegetable tanned leather cords. This inaugural collaboration led to an ongoing body of work with Yvonne Mouser called YMSF.

Our Current Collaborators

Diana O’Connor & Yvonne Mouser

I imagine the process of creation as a series of hands molding, applying their expertise to the object and passing the materials to another waiting set of hands. This dance has many steps in a specific order, none of which can be eliminated.

Tiersa, Co-Founder & Designer


Vegetable dyed silk, Kumihimo braided by hand into wearable hoops.

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www.stellafluorescent.com

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